View Full Version : Mugen seiki mbx6
mattperry
01-31-2010, 09:32 PM
SINCE TRAVIS JUST WON THE FIRST BIG RACE OF THE YEAR.
:football:
s porter
01-31-2010, 11:19 PM
I think we will be seeing quite a few Mugens on top of the podium this year....Good work Travis!
jzrevo
02-01-2010, 10:27 PM
Cool...I have only raced my once, which was last race of the year , last year....took 1st with it. Ran great....couldn't have asked for a better buggy.
Stickman
02-02-2010, 05:29 PM
S Porter.
I have had my 6 and 6t basically since they were released. I had issues with my first 6 chassis. You probably know what I am talking about. Has Mugen done anything about this? I found a fix and installed it in both of mine and it is working so far. I would be glad to share it if anybody needs help.. The issue I speak of is the chassis cracking near the flywheel hole and the motor mount holes.
jzrevo
02-02-2010, 06:09 PM
S Porter.
I have had my 6 and 6t basically since they were released. I had issues with my first 6 chassis. You probably know what I am talking about. Has Mugen done anything about this? I found a fix and installed it in both of mine and it is working so far. I would be glad to share it if anybody needs help.. The issue I speak of is the chassis cracking near the flywheel hole and the motor mount holes.
Since mine is a brushless conversion I haven't had the issue. But have been told to swap to the BCE chassis when my stock chassis wears down. The added length is suppose to help....not sure though.
s porter
02-02-2010, 07:09 PM
S Porter.
I have had my 6 and 6t basically since they were released. I had issues with my first 6 chassis. You probably know what I am talking about. Has Mugen done anything about this? I found a fix and installed it in both of mine and it is working so far. I would be glad to share it if anybody needs help.. The issue I speak of is the chassis cracking near the flywheel hole and the motor mount holes.
Hey Joel...I haven't cracked one. Although, I have run the BCE chassis for the past few months. When I was running the stocker on the car, I never let it get too thin without replacing it. IMO the chassis is a wear item. Once mine started to get halfway worn or a little more, I replaced it. There are a couple things guys can do fix it...One remedy that I have heard works well is the M2C rear chassis brace. How did you go about fixing it?
N&H Racing
02-02-2010, 09:09 PM
M2C Racing rear chassis brace is the way to go, along with his one piece motor mount
K. Wood
02-04-2010, 01:22 PM
Do any of you guys know about the M spec? I'm trying to find out how well they are built.
Thanks, Kevin
jzrevo
02-04-2010, 01:27 PM
Do any of you guys know about the M spec? I'm trying to find out how well they are built.
Thanks, Kevin
I have heard they are built pretty solid. I don't think you can go wrong.
s porter
02-04-2010, 02:10 PM
Do any of you guys know about the M spec? I'm trying to find out how well they are built.
Thanks, Kevin
I haven't purchased an MSpec, but I have heard there are just a couple areas that need to be loctited..One being the steering posts where the 4mm screws go through the chassis. Might not be a bad idea to check the CVD grubb screws that hold the pins in. If it were mine, I'd loctite the steering posts, then break the diffs in by running it for a few tanks out in the yard, and then tear the whole car down. Inspect the diffs and reshim if necessary..Hope that helps.
jzrevo
02-04-2010, 02:44 PM
I haven't purchased an MSpec, but I have heard there are just a couple areas that need to be loctited..One being the steering posts where the 4mm screws go through the chassis. Might not be a bad idea to check the CVD grubb screws that hold the pins in. If it were mine, I'd loctite the steering posts, then break the diffs in by running it for a few tanks out in the yard, and then tear the whole car down. Inspect the diffs and reshim if necessary..Hope that helps.
Sounds like its better to buy the kit then...lol
Scott how do you like the BCE chassis....worth buying? I am thinking about buying one for my buggy....just didn't know if it was worth it.
Jarvis
02-04-2010, 03:18 PM
I like kits better myself. I look forward to building a little each day.
N&H Racing
02-04-2010, 06:51 PM
It has different size shock springs and sway bars also
K. Wood
02-04-2010, 07:41 PM
Thanks for all the info guys!
Stickman
02-04-2010, 09:22 PM
My fix was the M2C brace along with filing off the corners of the engine mounts. The cracks appear in the middle of the chassis so it doesn't matter how thin the end gets.
How much longer is the BCE? I was thinking the car could use a little length. Do you have to buy a different rear center drive shaft?
mattperry
02-04-2010, 10:02 PM
bce chassis works good i like the extra length helps stabilize the car. the m2c brace (i designed) works well with the stock chassis helped with taco ing and center drive shaft deflection, and cracking. seems the bce wears abit better too. no on the rear drive shaft stock works fine plenty of depth in the cup.
N&H Racing
02-04-2010, 10:25 PM
The M-Spec center rear shaft is longer. Hello Mr. Perry
mattperry
02-05-2010, 05:08 PM
Huh? ?
K. Wood
06-08-2010, 10:38 AM
Do any of you Mugen guys know how to keep dirt out of the MBX-6 battery / reciever box? Mine was full of dirt after 1 race day.
The set up sheet that came with the kit said the diff fluid should be 7-5-2 with the 7 being in the front, have any of you tried that?
shannon c
06-09-2010, 05:31 PM
i've tried 7-5-2, 7-5-3, 5-7-2,and 5-7-3. i like the 5-7-3 that is the stock setup for the m spec. great starting setup for any track. tweak from there. my box gets dusty allso. the only way to cure this is to seal it up. shoe goo or silicone sealant at the seams. but then you have to redo it every time you go in the box. doesn't hurt anything so i just let it ride. in the summer you may have to put vent holes in it anyway to keep your reciever from cutting out because it got to hot.
K. Wood
06-10-2010, 08:28 AM
i've tried 7-5-2, 7-5-3, 5-7-2,and 5-7-3. i like the 5-7-3 that is the stock setup for the m spec. great starting setup for any track. tweak from there. my box gets dusty allso. the only way to cure this is to seal it up. shoe goo or silicone sealant at the seams. but then you have to redo it every time you go in the box. doesn't hurt anything so i just let it ride. in the summer you may have to put vent holes in it anyway to keep your reciever from cutting out because it got to hot.
Thanks!
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